Paint stripping

[piquet95971]

I have been looking at getting all the paint off the inside of the boat that I am restoring. The idea of the soda blasting didn't work out so I resorted to the heat gun and scraper. It came up all right. So I started looking at some paint strippers for the hull as I don't want to hit it with a sander as the planking is plywood and I don't want to run the risk of going through the top lamination or take the heads off the copper nails. I found something that seems really good from a place in Sydney that seems really good. It will remove the varnish and the stain as well. It's from a website called www.diypaintstripping.com.au. The product was developed across the ditch in NZ

The product seems expensive but if it works half as good as the videos It has to be worth considering. A 2 litre kit that will do 8 sq metre is $198. So probably one 2litre strip kit and an additional litre of the stripper and the flushing would do the outside of the hull of most of our boats.

Could any one in Sydney maybe have a chat with these guys and maybe even visit the to see how good this stuff really is and if it is suitable

Regards
Peter Sneddon

[bootlegger]

Mate just go to your local auto paint store and buy some normal paint stripper. Four litres costs about $40. I use it on all woods. Just make sure you wear gloves and rinse everything off with lots of water to neutralise the reaction. Be careful with your scraper. Try and do it all with a pull scraper.

[tommo]

Hey bootlegger spent a large period of my life bing a blastrer and applicator and i know you can do good ya just make sure the blaster uses 2nd or 3trd hand sand and turn the velocity down you have to be a good blaster and for the best it should not cost any more than 3$ a minite
there's a mob in warnambool called chemblarst they are not a bad mob for blarsting powder coating Peter Mcdonough owns the company and he knows his stuff you will get no b/s off Mic

[hookster]

Right that's it Tommo (spelt your name right this time), I have often wondered what would happen if I got on here with a few bourbons under my belt...(shouldn't that be what old bikers drink? Cab Merlo eh???) Good to see someone having a go, good onya!

[tommo]

still have a few makers mark on the odd a occasion, knocks me around too much these days.

[piquet95971]

I bought tha small kit of coopers ain't stripper today. Am just about to board the big bird with the red tail to go home to sunny and not so waterlogged Melbourne. I arrived in the rain capital ( Sydney) on Thursday and it hasn't stopped until this afternoon. You sydney eiders almost don't need launching ramps. There was so much water lying around the boats would just about float off without any assistance.

I will try out the stripper tomorrow if SWMBO hasn't got anything else planned.

Cheers
Peter

[Sunbeam11]

For stripping paint I found this to work well, and that is using the paint stripper, wait for it to do its bubbling and blistering and then hit it with the gurney/karcher high pressure cleaner with the turbo nozzle and it works great.
It still may take a few goes to get through the layers of paint, but its a lot easier than scraping, and it seems to get those difficult specs of paint that lay in the timber grain. It doesn't bruiseor gouge the timber if your careful and the timber is in reasonable good nick either.
But when using this method doing the inside the hull planks and ribs, you want to be able to drain the hull or have some way of getting the sludgy stuff out. Good to do this is if you plan on replacing the transom (as in my case) or when replacing a plank of or something.
This is also a good method as Bootlegger (Dave P) said, it neutralises the stripper at the same time. Also to get maximum blisterering happening between coats it helps for the hull to dry out a bit before the next coat.
What I did was put a good thick coat of stripper starting on the back half (stuffed if I can think of the boaty term for the back half of a boat) because it would drain to the open transom end and then did the front half. I did this over a few weeks, giving the hull a chance to dry out in between and then doing it over again.

And I tell ya, one of the best things about this method is, that the rivet heads come up like brand new, cos you not bashing into them with the scraper and not sanding the burr of the top if your sanding.
Iv' e used this method on metal stuff and all.
Please read the small print........I take no resposibility in the above suggestions and user must operate at own discretion...

[piquet95971]

After the stuff has been sitting around for a too long before attempting to use the coopers paint stripper while doing other things, I decided this arvo to try an area with the stripper


Have to say that I am mighty impressed. I have done probably 1.5-2 sq mtr of lightly painted areas that had already been stripped of most of the paint.
The stripper was sprayed on from a squirter bottle and allowed to brew for about 4-5 minutes and then hit with a brass wire bristle brush, like an oversized toothbrush.

The paint was lifted off very easily and the brass brush got into the grain of the timber of the ribs and left nothing behind except glossy timber.
I tried using the steel wool like suggested but found that the brass brush did a better job. I then hit the surface with the flusher and again with the brass brush to clean the stripper and grunge out of the timber.

Quite surprising really as to how much grunge it actually removed. I then wiped the surface down with the flusher dampened with on a chux and it brought the timber up like new.

The brochure stated that it would not need sanding and looking at the surface left behind I just about believe them.

The best part of the whole thing was seeing the surface of the plywood that has been left exposed so that I can identify the timber. Someone, whoever it was, that built this boat did some horrible things but the plywood that they used for the planking was Coachwood Marine ply. At the time of probable build in the 1960 this was almost the best ply around and so much better that the BS1088 Maple Marine Plywood that is around today.
A lot of the Coachwood Marine ply was made by Hancock Brothers Hanbro) and Brunzeel neither make coachwood marine plywood any more or not that I can find any way.
I'm probably being a bit harsh on the person that built it beacuse I think that some of the shoddy repairs have been done after the initial build.
So I am still around and the project is progressing.
chees
peter