Buster Skiff Restoration

Any questions? We will try and help.
Will
Posts: 82
Joined: 21 Nov 2015, 14:04

Re: Buster Skiff Restoration

Postby Will » 07 Dec 2018, 17:04

Thanks to the very significant help of a Forum member I have acquired a prop which should be right for the job.
Now I have another probably dumb question - the prop shaft has a 5/8 thread 11TPI - being a Morse taper one would assume a BSW thread but could be UNC - same pitch different thread profile - someone enlighten me please?
Also was reading recently that when fitting a prop using a nut / lock nut combination the lock nut should be fitted first ie against the prop hub??
Ive been in the engineering game nearly 60 yrs but never heard of this before any comments??

screwit
Posts: 995
Joined: 09 Apr 2010, 21:29
Location: Stratford vic

Re: Buster Skiff Restoration

Postby screwit » 07 Dec 2018, 21:44

Mine are older shatfs. And are bsw.
I don't like nyloc nuts with out having a split pin through the shaft.
I have brass shim washes and castle nuts .

Will
Posts: 82
Joined: 21 Nov 2015, 14:04

Re: Buster Skiff Restoration

Postby Will » 09 Dec 2018, 13:44

Thanks - this is an old shaft and will go with the BSW thread Ill spin up a couple of Brass castle nuts and washers because if you have a spare it will likely never get used!
The prop shaft key was a bit rough so I thought I would replace it - needed to be taller as Im using a sleeve in the prop. Couldn't move the key so ran a 3/16 slot drill thru the center and and tapped out the 'shell' - easy! Didn't appear to be any reason for the key being soo tight but thats Murphy's law I suppose

Will
Posts: 82
Joined: 21 Nov 2015, 14:04

Re: Buster Skiff Restoration

Postby Will » 09 Dec 2018, 13:53

Another question - when you guys static balance a prop do you use a dummy half key or balance the prop and shaft as an assembly
or I was thinking maybe to make a short dummy shaft / key but that might be overkill?

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Darren
Posts: 494
Joined: 08 Mar 2009, 21:18
Location: Mornington Peninsula VIC

Re: Buster Skiff Restoration

Postby Darren » 13 Dec 2018, 21:51

Hi Will,
Now your getting really technical. LOL
Stick the prop you've got from your prop guru on your prop shaft and use the old keyway, or make one up.
I may be wrong, but I have never balanced a prop with a key way in.
But mind you I get Steve Moritz in Murray Bridge to handle the prop side of things, he commented when he did Scrubcat's recently, it takes moments to take down the blades, ages to re-balance the prop.
Cheers
Darren

Will
Posts: 82
Joined: 21 Nov 2015, 14:04

Re: Buster Skiff Restoration

Postby Will » 02 Jan 2019, 13:21

Ok thanks for the advice. I knocked up a dummy shaft and 1/2 key so a static balance now relatively easy.
Things are moving but slowly
Another question - prop shaft set up - the set up in Buster seems to be a thrust bearing then a rigid flange coupling onto crank nose. Is this normal?
I cant see how its possible to set up the shaft and know the engine thrust bearings are not seeing the prop thrust

Reklaw
Posts: 181
Joined: 17 Nov 2014, 14:35

Re: Buster Skiff Restoration

Postby Reklaw » 02 Jan 2019, 21:12

That setup sounds about normal for a direct drive. If you're running a gearbox, then the box takes the thrust. In your case, I guess there's a cross piece that sits between the bearers with a thrust race in the hole where the shaft goes through, and as you say, a flange coupling to the front of the crank.

Will
Posts: 82
Joined: 21 Nov 2015, 14:04

Re: Buster Skiff Restoration

Postby Will » 25 May 2020, 14:00

Its been a long time with little action on my behalf -been rebuilding a slide on camper
A couple of questions re Buster Holden Engine;
1) stripped it down and looks in pretty good nick - may have been run since a rebuild but not much- the pistons / rods appear to have been balanced and the cam has no wear BUT
-- the cam is stamped 104 on the gear end , a bit of research seems to suggest this is a waggott cam which is quite 'Big' - however Waggott specs say this is a solid lifter cam and the lifters appear to be hydraulic?? any suggestions? The lifters also have 'cam saver grooves' (6) ground on each one -Crower have this spec on some lifters. ??
2) the camshaft is fitted with the standard Bakelite? gear. Should I change to an aluminium gear set? or possible a straight cut gear set?
Red 6 engines are new to me so sorry if some of the questions are ill-informed

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WoodRay
Posts: 399
Joined: 12 Feb 2014, 15:19

Re: Buster Skiff Restoration

Postby WoodRay » 25 May 2020, 14:50

If the wear on the lobes and lifter faces looks OK run with it. I'd definitely replace the fibre gear with an alloy or steel item. Re the grind should not be an issue as flat tappet mostly refers to the grind suiting that type of face rather than roller, however the hydraulic lifters may suffer from pumping up at the high rpm bracket unless they are anti pump up lifters. Not sure what the rpm spec of that cam is. Show me a pick of your slide on. I'm trying to work out something similar so I can tow the boat/s as well.

Will
Posts: 82
Joined: 21 Nov 2015, 14:04

Re: Buster Skiff Restoration

Postby Will » 25 May 2020, 15:39

I didnt explain the lifter flats very well - the flats are about 3mm wide and ground on the cylindrical surface the full length of the follower - supposedly to improve cam lobe wear. the cam lobes look perfect. Should I be able to compress the inner part of the lifter? Maybe they have been converted to solids
I might go with the straight cut gear set - I dont think gear noise will be a problem !!
Re Camper - Thats what my plan is too - so I can tow the boat.
Mine is same as this - https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/young/c ... 1237685973
they were made I think in the early 2000s by a boatbuilding mob in North Qld - they are Fiberglass honeycomb with a balsa core -strong and light . Mine is an early one with a twin screw wind up roof - I think the later ones were hydraulic or electric but they could have been converted . Its hard to find any info on them


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