Help Im getting Drowned

[blown292]

Hi guys, hoping someone can help out here.
I finally finished my quick fixup of a boat I originaly bought just for the engine. When I got it home I thought what the hell and ripped it to bits and did a quick deck with huon pine trimmings and dash. Figured seeing i have never played with a boat before it was better to learn on this while I restor my Lewis clinker later.
Got a licence two weeks before christmas finished the boat boxing day and set off for holiday and shakedown the following day

Everything worked perfect, my engine pulls really strong the only problem I have found is just off idle everybody gets drowned, I tested it quickly at eilden a few days before christmas with no screen and bloody hell it was bad. It was a mad rush to cast some frames in the few days before every closed up.
It did improve it but still pretty bad, question is, Is that normal?

I have noticed alot of bondwoods have a strip running along the lower edge, does that do anything?

Planning to take it down the cruise in the Yarra and really I would rather not wear that water or drink it

Thanks in advance for any suggestions, these photos sort of show the size and shape

[bauchy]

hey blown nice boat
i cant help with the problem of you getting drowned but if you get desperate bcf sell cheap scuba diving sets which would stop u swalling the yarra water.

my bond wood doesnt sit much higher then yours so im sure id have the same drama in some descent swell

be good to see ya boat on the cruise

brian

[viteau]

I know exactly what you mean about getting wet. I own Viteau which is a bondwood with glass over the top and it blade plows water really well at fast idle and especially when you turn into a head wind with chop. It did have a timber strip running the water line before the restoration but it wasn't going at that time so I can't tell you whether it worked. It originally had a 179 and now runs a chev 350 with FNR and a heavy jarrah deck so it would weigh a lot more than it did before. I find that if you have someone else sitting in the back it makes a difference and you just have to watch out for wash at slow speed. Does your boat make a huge wall of water when you turn around?
Cheers Chris

[Dave88]

Hi mate,

Depending on how the water is entering the boat, a wider gunwhale may help. On any of the sailboats I've done I made/shaped the gunwhale as per the pic attached. It's mainly done (to sailboats) so it's easier to carry down to the river, but I imagine it would help to deflect a bit more of the water too.

Other options could be to add a rail to the side of the boat, above the waterline as Chris mentioned.

[Dave88]

Another quick suggestion... A timber skirt or apron around the deck would surely offer decent protection too. I reckon it would look good if it were to follow the lines of the windscreen frames

Dave

[Stu]

Hi guys,

I have a similarly shaped bondwood hull and dont have any problems at idle or planeing. However I have an outer chinerail or double chine and this seems to eliminate this phenomenon. My father bought the boat in the late 60's and built the outer chinerail on there when he rebuilt it back then, so I dont know how it performed before hand (wasnt born). I guess it would change the form of the water and forces it away or downward before it make its way up the sides of the hull?

I will certainly be attaching such chinerails on the boat I am currently (very slowly) restoring.

[Greg]

Here are some pics of Stu's boat showing the chine rails (apologies for the quality).

Stu, great to hear from you again.

Greg

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[Greg]

I noticed yesterday that Brian Bauch's boat has similar timber strips running along the the chine line, as on Stu's boat. They actually look like the same hull design (Boesch?).

Greg

[antique-boatique]

Just looking at all the comments and I suspect the problem may be that the prop is lifting the stern too high as it appears water was coming over the deck. This is supported by the mention of a windscreen helping ease the situation. SK fibreglass boats are of a similar configuration to a bondwood and they dont have chine rails or gunwhales and I never had this problem. I have had this problem with new boat fit outs on some rear mount clinkers and always found it was a propeller problem causing too much lift at the stern and driving the nose into a position that affected the planing. A planing boat should have approx one third clear of he water when on that plane. Hope this helps.

[bauchy]

yeh id agree with the prop theory, my boats nose dives abit when ya back off quikly, i dont find it a problem because i only use it one rivers ( bridgewater and murray ) so dont often run into water thats rough enough to come over the deck.

the boat looks very similar shape to mine so. its good that a few are starting to turn up. hopefully they all go to nerrandera this year so we can work out any differences and work out who built them.

brian