tips for removing deck and sides

[markh5000]

Hi all, I have an older 16ft bondwood ski boat that I am about to begin to restore. First task is to remove the deck, which is nailed and, presumably, glued. Second, at some point she has been patched in the forward half of the starboard side, so I am hoping to entirely replace that bit of ply.

So, I was wondering whether anyone had any tips to R & R those bits, especially those tips that might prevent it from ending in an "epic fail" entry onto youtube...

I have plenty of car body repair experience, but sadly not much in the plywood stakes - not yet, anyway!

Cheers, and thanks in anticipation.

Mark

[Damo]

Hey Mark,
I am currently restoring a Bondwood hull boat myself and will be only too happy to help any way I can. With regards to hull repairs I skarf and epoxy my repairs in which seem to give excellent results(So Far ). You can see some of my progress under - 16ft Boesch Design Restoration. With regards to removing the deck mine was F$^&@d so I just reefed it off without much care . In hindsight I would have taken a bit more time to try to find out any sort of history about the boat maker as at this stage I dont really know anything, Good Luck!!!!!

[RightyO]

Mark i have replaced the deck on some seacrafts and i try to do the least amount of damage to the frame as possible.On one occasion the glue was gone but the nails would not pull out so i got my angle grinder with a slitting wheel and cut the nail heads off,plenty of smoke and stink but the ply came off easily and i pulled what was left of the nails with a pair of pinchers.The second time the glue was holding that well that it was destroying the frame so i set a router at the ply debth and cut it off the frame ,slow and tedious but it saved damaging the framework .I found the deck on rascala just pulled off very easily so it depends on how motivated the builder was.
Ken

[Alan]

Mark, as Ken said take care to keep the original surface of the frame as good as possible, try to do one part at a time so the shape stays original/straight. Also try to start from the bottom first.

[markh5000]

Thanks chaps, I really appreciate the replies.

Damo, I have been following your thread with great interest, and learning plenty along the way. It's largely been the catalyst to get me off my arse and into the shed, that and this year's Goolwa wooden boat festival. So thanks for putting it up, and keep up the good work!

My deck is going to be totally replaced - changing the configuration to a twin cockpit - so I think Ken's method looks the goods. I know nothing about the boat, other than that it dates from the early/mid 60's. Some sort of kit boat no doubt, it looks to be modelled on the seacrafts, but a bit bigger.

As for skarfing, is there a way to skarf the side panel that is to remain on the boat, or is it best to bite the bullet and replace both sheets? Would be nice to keep as much of the original as possible.

Thanks again, I'll post some pics once I get myself a bit more organised.

Cheers,

Mark

[Alan]

I reckon it's skarfing hard, but just remember that if it is a panel that is to be cleared not painted then the surfaces have to be aligned very closely. A good skarf (strong) should be at least 5 or 7 times as long as the ply thickness, I think the more the better but it gets harder.

[hookster]

You haven't got a bloody Capri convertible tucked away in your shed too have you Mark???? Come on, fess up and show us what you've got out in that man cave

[markh5000]

lordy, we've barely met and you're making that kind of accusation? how outrageous...

i do have a 71 type 3 VW in there though, and a gq patrol that's soon to be tickled...

and my boat does have an old slant 6 in it, so i'll be sharing a little mopar lovin with damo.

[Damo]

Very Cool Mark, The old "LEANING TOWER OF POWER" is a great motor not to mention it being "MOPAR" . I wont hold the V-Dub against you mate but not sure why its taking up valuable shed space that could be filled with another boat or car just not a bloody "Capri" trust me I know!!!! I cant wait to see some pics of your boat Mark as it sounds great. Let me know if your chasing any bits for it as there is quite a bit of gear here in the West.

[piquet95971]

for the plywood on the side of the boat and for that matter even on the bottom i think a better way would to be to butt strap it.
cut the section to be replaced out neatly well past the damaged section. Then behind the plywood on the side I would glue on the inside of the boat a 4-6' wide strap of 6mm marine plywood at the aft and fwd end of the section to be replaced.
Then cut a piece of marine plywood to neatly fit in the hole. If its a really neat fit there should be no visible join line.

Glue the patch in with some epoxy adhesive.
I assume that the repair section will be fitted between the chine and the deck edge wher there is a strong piece of timber glue and screw or nail the patch into the chaine and deck edge. Llet everything dry and then sand and paint/varnish