Rudder set up and steering

Any questions? We will try and help.
User avatar
Chivs
Posts: 848
Joined: 14 Sep 2009, 15:52

Rudder set up and steering

Postby Chivs » 20 Jul 2012, 11:49

Ahoy there!

Got a couple of questions for the panel,

I have temporarily put the cave plate on with the rudder and then put the A bracket over the rudder stock to fix to transom. There is a gap of 2 cm or more and when pulled the A bracket in to the transom with the bolts, this has really stiffened up the rudder to turn.

Do the rudder A brackets come in different lengths or pretty much standard?

What sort of resistance am I after when the rudder is on the cav plate through the rudder stock?

If being so stiff to turn by hand will the cable steering cope? My experiences of driving others boats was that the steering was easy and direct.

Lastly (for now) what length of cable should I get and how many turns should there be on the steering drum?

Thanks for any feedback you can give.

Chris

Doc
Posts: 256
Joined: 18 Jul 2009, 07:28

Re: Rudder set up and steering

Postby Doc » 20 Jul 2012, 14:09

Hi Chris,
A frame steering bracket back in the 60's---70's came out in 3 standard lengths. The rudder should turn free with no binding, when your in the water you will gain more force. Skiffs and Skiffabouts normally ran the longer as props would be at transom ,hence a longer cav plate. I can say Col Winton made custom tear drop meranti spacers between transom and A-frame on Sabre.
Doc.

User avatar
Chivs
Posts: 848
Joined: 14 Sep 2009, 15:52

Re: Rudder set up and steering

Postby Chivs » 20 Jul 2012, 14:40

Hi Doc and thanks.

When I got Torea from Bob the cav plate was there but no steering. Bob gave me some extra bits and pieces but there is no way of telling if they came from Torea or Turbo Fire. I was waiting for some feedback and thought that I could make up some spacers to push out the bracket I have to free up the rudder a bit.

And here is some photos, cheers.
Attachments
torea rudder.JPG
torea rudder.JPG (49.07 KiB) Viewed 7525 times
rudder stock.JPG
rudder stock.JPG (76.85 KiB) Viewed 7524 times
rudder set.JPG
rudder set.JPG (70.27 KiB) Viewed 7522 times

antique-boatique
Posts: 159
Joined: 03 Jun 2009, 17:00

Re: Rudder set up and steering

Postby antique-boatique » 20 Jul 2012, 14:59

when I was fitting out tupperware boats it was quite common to use spacers or ream out the A Frames as the castings often left a lot to be desired. I used a minimum of 2 turns around the drum but preferred 3 and always put an extra piece of cable across the turnbuckle - that is used for tightening the cable - after the tension is ok as a safety if there is ever a turnbuckle failure

Doc
Posts: 256
Joined: 18 Jul 2009, 07:28

Re: Rudder set up and steering

Postby Doc » 20 Jul 2012, 16:34

Chris,
When your working on the boat, do you have your head down? The bloody thing is upside down. Some A frames are angled for Everingham boats..
Doc. Where the rudder shaft goes into the A-Frame , the collar should flair out to the bottom.

Doc
Posts: 256
Joined: 18 Jul 2009, 07:28

Re: Rudder set up and steering

Postby Doc » 20 Jul 2012, 17:53

Chris,
Digital wide lens Cameras can distort photos, but the more i look at this photo the more it looks like a A-Frame to suit a Everingham boat. Look at the lower edge and transom edge on the A-Frame ,turn it upside down and seems to lean back at the lower end of transom.
Doc. The rudder shaft should be the same distance to transom from the top and bottom. Chris, go to Past Events on site and click on 2006 melbourne boat show. Bottom right of page "ELECTRIC GIRL" rear end , this is how "Torea" should be set up. Centre turn buckle is standard on Skiffabout ,outside turn buckels are added extras to replace timber knees.
Last edited by Doc on 20 Jul 2012, 18:48, edited 1 time in total.

User avatar
Chivs
Posts: 848
Joined: 14 Sep 2009, 15:52

Re: Rudder set up and steering

Postby Chivs » 20 Jul 2012, 18:40

Thanks Doc for your imput once more.

As you should know by now, I am a complete novice at all this stuff, hence this post!

I was not sure if there was a top and a bottom to the bracket, it appeared to me to be a universal fit, I did try both ways and thought the photographed example looked right, that is the plastic bush is virtually flush compared to the other way around where there is a fair bit over. Both ways the bolts fit straight in through the pre drilled original holes in the transom.

To be continued, no doubt!

:? Chris

antique-boatique
Posts: 159
Joined: 03 Jun 2009, 17:00

Re: Rudder set up and steering

Postby antique-boatique » 20 Jul 2012, 19:07

I have seen these A Frames mounted both ways and it would be arguable if it makes any difference either way if the shaft hole is parallel to the base where the bolts pass through.. The important factors are the rudder shaft is vertical and turns freely

User avatar
DaveD
Posts: 866
Joined: 11 Mar 2009, 22:25

Re: Rudder set up and steering

Postby DaveD » 21 Jul 2012, 19:49

Jayme II has spacers behind the quadrant bracket. I replaced them when I tidied up the transom but the ones that were there certainly looked like they'd be there since day one.
As Doc said Everingham quadrants are made for the angled transom so wouldn't suit a Lewis. The angle should be pretty obvious as the quadrant won't be at 90 degrees to the transom.
Dave


Return to “Restoration Help and Advice”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 21 guests