our project

[piquet95971]

Ah some progress again.

Cleaned off the bottom of the boat used the good old spray and wipe as its too cold to get drowned with a hose and water. I have drilled out all the pilot holes to complete the nail and roving of the ribs. Some may be a bit sloppy so I will probably set them down in some polyurethane adhesive as it will fill the gap round the nail. the original nails in this area have already been replaced with the next gauge up and i dont really want to go up anotherr gauge as the head size would be miles too big.

A couple of the lands of the planks have opened yo so I may try and squeeze some 5200 into those gapes prior to nailing.

Marked out the nailing pattern for the renailing of the transom
looks like some of the adhesive didnt take properly so I will have to rake out the joint fill with epoxy and then clamp and nail.

Like Chivs I have noticed a line of caulking cotton between the keel and the garbooard plank.
It looks preety grotty in the seam so I will have to remove this clean out the slot and replace the caulking cotton.

Chivs did you bed the caulking in the 5200 and then seal over the top or exactly how did you do it? Any advice gratefully accepted
so were are on the march again.

Floating by Melbourne Cup weekend is the aim now and a going concern for the Xmas Hols (maybe)
cheers
peter

[Chivs]

Ahoy there Peter,

1. There are a lot more experts out there to give the advice you require!

2. 5200 is just like sikaflex, it can be messy, I think you are toying with the idea of putting in the 5200 as a bed and then the cotton caulking? This could be messy, I used oakum for the caulking which has a waxy grease like substance in the woven strands (good ole Bruce just had some lying around, not sure if it's available any more?). Proper caulking cotton is fine but if you don't have proper caulking irons you should try and borrow some. If you get stuck I am sure Bruce would lend you his if you want to pay the postage?

3. After the caulking forced in I did seal it off with 5200!

Good luck Peter, best regards, Chris.

[piquet95971]

Thanks Chris for the info.
I haven't pulled the caulking out yet but it looks like a braided " string" for the want of a better description. If its still light enough when I get home tomorrow I will pull it out and have a good look.

There are a couple of places that I can get caulking cotton from here in Melbourne. I will have to buy much more than I need. I will contact the other place in Sydney that say that they sell by the metre and see what the story is from them.

I take it that the 5200 is paintable like the sikaflex equivelents. I just hope that is available in colours other than white

Chat soon
Peter

[NPeth]

Peter 3M 5200 is available in black and Mahogany as well.

[piquet95971]

thanks, the mahogany seems like it might be close to the colour of the boat. Not that many people will see the keel when its floating!!!!

[hookster]

Of course you are assuming it will float Pete....it's a clinker don't forget

[piquet95971]

That's unkind but probably close to the mark!!!

[rayza1]

Isn't that the purpose of the 5200??
Ray

[piquet95971]

Last weekend I bit the bullett and managed to roll the boat over with no damage.

Since then I have cut out the joint between the transom and the underwater planks where they had been glued and not nailed. A while ago I bought a Fein Multmaster Kit and this was about the first time that I have used it as it was supposed to be used.

If anybody is considering one they are very very good, a bit expensive but well worth the cost. Bosch make one I tried it but went with the more expensive and more powerful item. But we are off the mark.

I put the fine blade in the multitool and cut between the planks and the transon and removed the old Epoxy. Tonight I managed to get home before dark, mixed up some epoxy and pushed heaps it into the joint and then nailed the planks to the transom. A reasonable amount squeezed out of the joint, so I think that we have a good bed in the joint itself.

I may have to make a trim piece to run around the inside of the transom to hide the joint. I'll wait and see how the joint looks after the epoxy has dried and the areas of the joint cleaned up.

cheers
Peter

[piquet95971]

Managed to squeeze my fat gut under the side of the boat with a lead light and drilled out the nail holes in the ribs a little larger than the pilot holes. This was done so that when the copper nails are knocked through from the outside the ribs don't split. I have knocked the line of nails through the garboard plank and the keel, I'll get the apprentice (wife) to hold the dolly on the outside while I rove that line of nails first. Then I will remove the caulking between the keel and the the pank, clean out the groove ready for replacing.
I am getting a roll of caulking cotton from my daughter for my birthday.
I am going to make a caulking tool as the groove is a lot narrower than the commercially available items.

On another forum I saw a home made hammer which would be ideal for use with a caulking iron. I will try and work out how to pst the link to the photo. As I think it would be fairly easy to make and as good as any store bought item

Cheers
Peter.