New Prop

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The Spook
Posts: 198
Joined: 20 Jun 2009, 15:49

Re: New Prop

Postby The Spook » 16 Dec 2016, 00:27

Dave

This sounds like a much better fix than pipe cleaners which has been suggested by a few people. I have actually heard of pipe cleaners being used and that they came out of the top of the push-rod. With the roll pin because it is a tap fit into the push-rod and squeezes down as it goes in and is made of spring steel it gets a decent grip on the inside of the push rod. Apparently this fix is not known for the roll pins coming out and has been around for a while, it's just that I had never heard of it before. The idea is to put the end of the push-rod with the roll pin in it down to the lifter so that if one does get blown through it just goes into the push-rod.

Dave I understand where you are coming from, it doesn't take much to stuff an engine but I'm over the oil issue. If it works its a cheap fix as it cost me $4.00 for 20 roll pins. This compared with $3500 for a dry sump which is one of the fixes which has been suggested and I still can't see how a dry sump will change anything as you still have to pump the oil into the same oil galleries that it is currently pumped into. Having put 16 roll pins into 16 push-rods I can tell you that they are not a loose fit and it takes a bit to tap them in, I am not expecting that they will be just popping out at the drop of a hat.

I will let you know how it goes, but if my mate can run a sprint car engine to 8000 rpm with this roll pin setup in his push-rods and not have any over oiling issues from his rocker covers and not have the roll pins come out it has to be worth a try. He tells me that his engine has been this way for a long time now.

I guess that every one has to figure out what they want to do with their engine to fix any issues that they might have with their engine. This is what I am doing to fix the rocker cover over oiling issue I have with my engine.

Bob

Will
Posts: 119
Joined: 21 Nov 2015, 14:04

Re: New Prop

Postby Will » 16 Dec 2016, 11:29

Bob
I come from a circuit racing background where nobody who is serious attempts to run wet sump engines. Dry sumping has many advantages
a - can run any oil volume you wish
b - properly designed you have negative sump pressure which greatly aids scavenging
c - internal or external pipes drained from high oil collection areas to dry sump gallery ( negative pressure ) this greatly reduces the both oil volumes where you dont want it and reduces the parasitic losses ( can be very high) from crank flailing in large volumes of returning oil.
d - ability to change the oil volume and or scavenging volumes with pump size / speed
e - crank and rod scrapers to remove all excess oil direct to dry sump gallery
We mostly built systems for 4 cyl 4 valve twin cam engines (up to 8500 rpm) which were notoriously bad for large volumes of oil in the head / cam covers , there was hardly more than a smear of oil in the catch cans after any event
Kevin

The Spook
Posts: 198
Joined: 20 Jun 2009, 15:49

Re: New Prop

Postby The Spook » 16 Dec 2016, 12:19

Will

I think the point is this;

This is: a 1950 s era wooden round nose vintage hydroplane. Driver in the rear, engine in front of the driver, it is not a competitive race boat, it is merely a play toy for me in my twilight years. I am 60 and have done all the competitive stuff that I want to do in my lifetime. My only interest these days is to run the boat at some vintage demonstration events each year and have a bit of fun.

It is not: a modern front seat rear engine pickle fork hydroplane with reinforced safety capsule made of space age composites that a person would run if someone were to be competing in this day and age in an NSW, Australian or Australasian championship.

The engine is a late 1960 to 1970s era Holden 308 block based push rod V8 which has been stroked to 357 cubic inches, it is commensurate with the era of the boat. This engine at this stage appears to have sufficient grunt to make the boat a lively drive. What I am trying to achieve is to keep the oil in the sump where it belongs and not in the rocker covers, catch cans and or all over me. The sump is a high performance after market job which has windage trays, special oil pickup, oil flow gates and is designed to keep the oil around and over the pickup at all times. The wet sump is, in my opinion, not the problem, the problem is how to stop so much oil from being pumped into the top end of the engine that it comes out of the rocker covers and at this stage I think my mate has come up with a practical solution that I had never heard of before and I like the sound of. For those of you out there that are not as into these engines as I am, modern small blocks offer a variety of ways to achieve the same result by the use of various top end oil restriction designs that are built into them. The 308 block doesn't have these modern oil restriction options built in so I have to find another way to do it.

With respect a dry sump is not commensurate with the era of the boat, I make no argument against the theory that a dry sump may well be the ultimate in modern engine oiling technology.

The bottom line is that the boat is a dinosaur, the engine is a dinosaur and the owner driver is a dinosaur. I don't talk about about this stuff because I want every one to know every thing that I do but if I've found something out that will help me with my boat and engine then that information may be helpful to someone else.

Just trying to put the whole thing into perspective.

Bob

The Spook
Posts: 198
Joined: 20 Jun 2009, 15:49

Re: New Prop

Postby The Spook » 31 Jan 2017, 22:34

Hi Folks

I am going to Taree again this weekend to their club day on Sunday.

I have done a list of things to the boat.

1/ Roll pins in the push rods (oil control to top end hopefully)
2/ Remote oil filter setup (standard 308 oil pump and filter location is a pain in the arse in the hydro)
3/ Relocated the fuel filter and a new filter canister
4/ Under geared the water pump by 30% (the engine overheated last time at Taree as well as the oil problem)

Apparently high rpm engines over rev the water pump and it can cavitate inside the engine causing cooling problems in the top end rev range.

Bob

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bootlegger
Posts: 1472
Joined: 09 Mar 2009, 20:18

Re: New Prop

Postby bootlegger » 01 Feb 2017, 23:41

Good luck on the weekend Bob. One day ill be able to go racing again.

The Spook
Posts: 198
Joined: 20 Jun 2009, 15:49

Re: New Prop

Postby The Spook » 02 Feb 2017, 12:42

Dave

Looking forward to getting out on the water with you again. We'll do a couple of "vintage demonstration runs" together.

Bob

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bootlegger
Posts: 1472
Joined: 09 Mar 2009, 20:18

Re: New Prop

Postby bootlegger » 02 Feb 2017, 22:46

Yep im aiming for forster.

The Spook
Posts: 198
Joined: 20 Jun 2009, 15:49

Re: New Prop

Postby The Spook » 06 Feb 2017, 13:36

Hi all

I went to Taree and was pretty pleased with the first run of the day. No oil on me which was a pleasant change, although the problem is still not completely cured as I still had oil in the r/h catch can.

When I went out for the second run, no oil pressure, so it looks like an engine out exercise. I don't think I did any damage but its probably time for a checkup anyway.

Bob

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bootlegger
Posts: 1472
Joined: 09 Mar 2009, 20:18

Re: New Prop

Postby bootlegger » 07 Feb 2017, 19:27

No oil pressure is not good. Fingers crosssed you havent wrecked the crank.

Alan
Posts: 977
Joined: 04 Mar 2009, 22:24

Re: New Prop

Postby Alan » 07 Feb 2017, 22:24

As long as the oils still on the inside cant be too bad, saw some video of the test, looked good, cant wait to see it with a tail though.


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